It’s been two weeks since The New Yorker published the now infamous Calvin Trillin’s poem, “Have They Run Out of Provinces Yet?” While some have tried to defend the poem as light verse, intended as a satirical jab directed at hipster foodies who pretend familiarity with the cuisine but whose grasp of the food supposedly pales in comparison with serious food critics like Trillin—the poem instead comes across as the type of painfully awkward and unfiltered conversation you might overhear between two white men who think there’s no one else in the room.  It comes across that way because that is pretty much how Trillin sees the world, even if we buy his defense that it was meant as satire.